With a Side of Corn

Did you know that succotash (basically sweet corn, lima, and other beans; but other vegetables and meat can be added. My mother made a version combining corn and green beans) has its origins in pre-colonial New England? It’s a Native American invention from the region; the word itself means “broken corn kernels.”

Former Fortune I00 businessman turned farmer Michael Pearl of Pearl Family Farm in Missouri (he inherited an 87-acre farm originally purchased in I890 by his emancipated great-grandfather. Last year, besides growing diverse vegetables (poly cropping), he sowed I0 acres of his nostalgic favorite, sweet corn with a bicolor variety similar to Peaches and Cream), grew up eating this side dish and now has his own special way of making this:

“I slice corn off the cob. I take my onions. I take my green zucchini. I saute that in a skillet with a little bit of butter-and behold, you’ve got succotash.”

Here’s the recipe in full:

Ingredients

5 Tbs. sunflower oil or other neutral oil, divided

I cup chopped yellow summer squash or zucchini

2 cups fresh sweet corn, kernels cut from cobs (about I cup) or can use I can of whole sweet kernel corn

I cup frozen lima beans, thawed

One-half tbs. salt, divided

One-fourth tbs. freshly ground black pepper or can just use regular pepper

In a large skillet, heat I Tbs. sunflower oil over medium-high heat.

Add squash, corn, and lima beans.

Cook until many of the pieces are just golden, 5 to 7 minutes.

Season with one-fourth tb. each salt and black pepper.

Let cool.

And here’s a recipe for:

Corn Skewers with Chimichurri

Please Note: You can also just use full-size cobs if desired.

Ingredients

3 cloves garlic, peeled

One-half tbs. salt

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

I tb. crushed red pepper

One-third cup finely chopped fresh parsley

One-third cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano

One-half cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper or just regular pepper

3 ears of sweet corn, husks and silks removed

9 5-to 6-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in warm water for 30 minutes

Flaky sea salt

I. For chimichurri: On a cutting board, finely chop garlic.

Sprinkle chopped garlic with the salt.

Use the side of the knife to flatten and press garlic into even smaller pieces and incorporate it with the salt to form a paste.

Transfer the garlic paste to a bowl.

add vinegar and crushed red pepper; let stand for 5 minutes.

add parsley, cilantro, and oregano; toss with a fork.

add olive oil in a slow steady stream while whisking constantly.

Season to taste with black pepper. (Chimichurri can be stored and covered in the fridge for up to 24 hours.)

2. Using a large, sharp knife, cut each ear of corn into three equal pieces.

Insert skewers deeply into the center of each cob piece.

3. Prepare a grill for medium direct heat.

Grill skewers, covered, turning often, until corn is tender and slightly charred, 8 to I0 minutes. Place skewers on a serving platter; spoon chimichurri over cobs. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt.

Time: 30 minutes

Makes: 9 skewers

More On Corn

Corn is 9,000 years old and was first domesticated in Mexico.

Other decolonized food (those that predate the arrival of Europeans) are squash, beans, maple syrup, and bison (buffalo).

Grits, mush, and polenta generally refer to the same thing: Coarse-ground cornmeal, simmered in liquid until thickened and creamy.

I had never heard of corn ice cream (!) until I came across this recipe.

From the Sophomore Spanish Club in Jackson, Mississippi and created by Chef Jesse Houston, here is:

No-Churn Corn Ice Cream

Ingredients

10 cups fresh yellow corn kernels (from 12 large ears or you can use canned sweet corn, but measure carefully; there are 3.5 servings per can at 15.25 oz. I recently checked this.)

1 and three-fourths cups heavy cream

1 cup sweetened condensed milk

1 tsp vanilla extract

One-fourth kosher salt

Waffle cones (optional)

Dulce de leche or caramel sauce (optional)

  1. Working in batches, process corn kernels in a food processor or until very juicy, about 15 seconds. Press processed corn through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a bowl to yield about 2 cups of corn juice; discard solids.
  2. Transfer corn juice to a large nonstick skillet; bring to a simmer over medium-low, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula. Simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened to a pudding-like consistency and reduced to about 1 cup, 8 to 12 minutes. (When the spatula is dragged through the corn mixture, it will hold a line for about 2 seconds before flowing to fill the gap.) Remove from heat. Press corn mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a large heatproof bowl; discard any solids. Let corn mixture cool to room temperature, stirring often, for about 15 minutes.
  3. Beat cream, condensed milk, vanilla, and salt in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Fold into corn mixture in 2 additions. Pour into a 9-x5-inch loaf pan; press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the corn mixture. Freeze until firm, at least 12 hours. Serve scoops of sweet corn ice cream in waffle cones; drizzle with dulce de leche or caramel sauce, if desired.

Please Note: Ice cream can be made and frozen 2 weeks ahead.

Total Time: 50 minutes, and 12 hours for freezing

Makes: 6 to 8 cones

Sources: “All Ears” by Stacey Brugeman-Midwest Living, Summer 2023 and “Smooth Moves” by Josh Miller-Handbook segment-Food and Wine, Aug. 2020